Thursday 5 July 2018

Final day: Laguna Humantay

I have now managed to do almost everything I had set out to do in Peru. Unfortunately, there were still two remaining sites that I wanted to visit: (1) The Rainbow Mountains, or (2) Laguna Humantay. Unfortunately I only had one day remaining, and both attractions required a full day or driving and hiking so one would miss out. I eventually decided to go with option b, purely because I love water, or at least like the idea of looking at water.

Today was another early start. One of the few benefits of being jetlagged; not struggling with the alarm clock in the middle of the night. 5 am pick up from outside the tour company, near the main square. We start the drive out, it's a bumpy ride, the road is barely a road and we pass cyclists, donkeys and hikers along the dusty trail. So bumpy. Most people are sleeping or trying to sleep. I feel queasy from all the rocking and frequent jerking of the body. After a quick breakfast stop we reach our final destination at 10 am. My head is rattled, I feel hungover and slightly disorientated from the ride from Cusco. Man, that was bumpy!


There's 10-15 people in our Tour Group. Despite making the booking in English I have somehow managed to join a Spanish Tour Group, the instructor rifts off some Spanish. I assume he's explaining what to expect with the day's activities - The hike is absolutely gorgeous, sheer cliff faces, snow-capped mountains in the backdrop, llamas, donkeys trotting along the pass. I talk to some of the other people in the tour group, there's a couple from New York, another couple from Brazil and a family from Argentina.




The altitude makes walking and breathing difficult. Each step feels like an task and an achievement at the same time. Horses assist tired patrons up the pass. Aside for the odd couple holding hands, it is very much a solitary climb. Despite being surrounded by hundreds of tourists, each person is climbing this alone and it's not uncommon to see people stop along the way, catching breaths, drinking water and admiring the view. My climb to the top is supplemented with a wooden walking pole, podcasts and Spotify lists (specifically the new Kanye West and Pusha T). Two hours later, heavy legs and worked over lungs I reach the crescent. The crescent opens up to a drop that reveals a huge glacier hugged by two peaks, sitting on top of a huge lake. Laguna Humantay in all its glory - Absolutely breath taking (both figuratively, and literally).
  




Our tour group performs Pachamama, and we start the descent down. It's significantly easier going down. Everybody is covered in dust and we stop off for a late lunch. He jokes that we are eating Condor, but it tastes suspiciously like chicken. The ride back is long and we arrive back into Cusco at 7 pm. I look forward to having a hot shower and tucking into one last meal. My last night in Cusco. One last time walking around the main Plaza, upon recommendation I try my first Chifa meal; it's the first time I've found the food disappointing.

It has been 7 days since I've shaved, for most people that would warrant a fully-fledged beard, for me that means, a bit of fluff and some whiskers. It means I look like a Chinese Car salesman (the irony is, my dad was a car salesman albeit for a month). I stumble into a small local barbershop. The lady looks at my facial hair skeptically and agrees to purge the embarrassment off my face for 10 soles. In no other country would I pay somebody to give me a hot shave.

Each time I walk into Plaza de Armas, I'm momentarily taken aback. Each time I want to pull out my camera and try to capture the setting. And each time I just smile and take it in. I will never get sick of that view. What a magical, enchanting city. I already want to return.

Currently Reading: "Musashi"

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